Yes that was my idea, I already ordered a magnetic plate kit today and I can try this out first. Since the heater is an aluminum PCB directly glued to the glass I might just try to separate the glass from the PCB if the glass if sticking it on top doesn’t work out like I wanted
Luckily I already have a ABL setup, since I had to re-level the bed every 2 or 3 prints…
I might be “lucky” in the sense that the glass appears to already separate at the corners.
Does the magnetic plate warp much under high heat loads? Since I print a lot with PET(G) and sometimes ABS I thought this might be a problem.
If I leave the glass on I might not get to the Maximum temperature, but I ordered some moderately priced magnetic kit already, so I’ll just clip this on top and Test first.
Yes this is the first time this has happened, I printed roughly 2kg of abs on this printer already and I never had any problems with too much bed adhesion. But hey, this part didn’t warp a single mm ಠ_ಠ…
It might work, but you generally want to have a flat surface and it needs to stand up to extended periods of temps up to 110°C and I’m pretty sure this is borosilicate glass
But I also can’t get the glass shards off the printed parts, so this is pretty much a moot point
I’ve managed to get the rest of the sprint loose, sadly it was already damaged beneath. 
Since it looks like the glass bee is already lifting by the corners from the heat bed I bet I can remove it pretty easily, but if the bare heater PCB (1.5mm thick) makes a good surface for a magnetic bed I don’t know…
That was my idea, as well, but the Glass is glued to the heater, though I have seen a video that shows its possible to remove the glass.
But then the thin aluminum heater seems so flexible, I am not sure if a flexible PEI sheet on top of that would work well…
To be fair the PEI kit I was looking at is a aluminium baseplate, silicone heater mat, magnetic base & the PEI sheet, so basically a complete replacement of the bed.
since the glass is glued to the heater I was looking at a complete replacement at first.
That sounds like an option. It looks like the aliminum heater is quite thin, I estimate 1-1.5mm, so unlikely to be a good suface to mount a flexible sheet to?
Yea, I can see that now, It is how it came from the factory.
I could try to seperate the Glass from the aluminum heat bed, though I fear I might bend it in the process. It looks like the MK3 ALU-Heatbed Dual Power frm the reprap Wiki, except it’s 220x220mm.
If I can get the glass off without damaging the Heatbed I could also attach a magnetic PEI Plate to that, not sure if that thin alu plate is a good backing in that case.
Thanks, I guess that could be an option. I would just have to find a way how to seperate the heater PCB from the existing glass, it does appear to be glued to it quite strongly
Well I don’t have any way to mount the PEI bed? This is a glas bed with the heater glued to it, and the mounting screws are integrated into the heater. So I would need to find a way to either seperate the glass from the heating PCB or somhow mount the new bed on top of the exisiting one.
Unless there are cheaper compatbile option I did not find. It is quite hard to find something for this specific printer
I was using Quad9 for quite some time, but I had consistent problems with the DNS sometimes not working.
In my local network I switched to pihole with unbound as the resolver. Though this does require a bit more setup. I have unbound setup to serve expired records from the cache & prefetch comment queries, this helps with most of the delay.
On my phone I use dnsforge.de when I am not at home for example, and haven’t had any problems with unresponsive DNS so far.
Since I am behind CG NAT I try to use IPv6 for most things at home. It works pretty well most of the time. Also a lot of Software (or should I say games) that claim to not support ipv6 do, as long as you can give them a domain that only has AAAA entries…
SLAAC is pretty cool if it works and if you can weed out all the devices with privacy extensions enabled by default, so you can properly apply rules…
I can also recommend EndeavorOS, mostly seamless install even with a Nvidia Optimus GPU (well that one took a bit of research on what to install exactly, not that it’s easier on other distros)
My Banking App does have the option to disable this feature.
It’s all fine if it’s a user choice, very annoying if it’s not.
I love the aspect ratio of Sony phones, It actually allows me to use it completely with one Hand, normal phones are just a bit too wide to do so comfortably.
I have tried it and it works. It is not as good as a dedicated drier and not as energy efficient.
The worst filament was some 5 y old pla that was so brittle it snapped when unrolling from the spool, that just couldn’t be fixed on the heated bed. I had to dry it at 50°C for 12h to be usable again.
In fact Linux is the superior version of Factorio, since you get to have asynchronous saves that don’t pause the game
I just removed the Glass plate, not really a big job in my case.
Almost all of the glue stayed on the Glass and the remaining glue was very easy to clean with Acetone.