Hi! I’ve only posted here maybe once, but I’m looking to change that and have been working to improve my joinery.

Specifically, I recently had the geometric realization that adjusting the horizontal angle on my miter saw is one of the least precise adjustments I can make, when trying to make two cuts that add up to 90 degrees. So instead, I now set the angle for the smaller angle, make the first cut, then set the workpiece for the second piece using a square against the fence. Basically, I’m rotating the piece so it’s 90 degrees to the saw fence, and that lets me cut the complementary angle without realigning the saw angle.

The new problem is that because I’m still using slightly-warped and slightly-twisty stock, the surfaces aren’t terribly great for gluing up. In one case, I glued up one end of a diagonal brace but the other end was lifting up, off-plane. Hand sanding with a block helps, but more often than not, I end up rounding off the edges and glue leaks out. So I’m now seeking recommendations for a small hand plane, so that I can have better, flatter surfaces to glue together.

Is this the right approach? If I’m mostly working with narrow stock like 1x4-inch, is there a correct-sized hand plane to smooth out an end-grain on that small of stock? Apologies in advance for not really knowing all the right wood terminology. I’m still learning.

Ideally, I’d like to buy something that will be versatile and serviceable for a long time. So cost isn’t too important, but ideally it’d be proportional to my (few) other tools. If I know what to look for, I’ll keep my eye out for such a specimen while at the thrift store.

EDIT: To clarify, a use-case would be if I’m gluing a diagonal brace at mid-height of a post. If i had a plane, I could work the post so that it has a flat face, so that the brace won’t deviate left/right. For the diagonal brace itself, I can mostly trust my miter saw to cut the angle reasonably plumb.

EDIT 2: Might I actually want a card scraper instead?

EDIT 3: y’all are awesome and I now have a fair number of suggestions to consider. I guess there goes all my disposable money for September, once I go visit the nearby woodworking shop.

  • ytsedude@lemmy.world
    6·
    3 days ago

    It’s been a while since I bought a plane, but I see two ways of going about it:

    1. Buy Once, Cry Once. If budget allows, get a Lie Nielsen or something super nice. I personally think the Wood River plans are great, too.

    2. Refurbishment. Buy an old Stanley from an antique store or estate sale or whatever (not eBay) and restore it. You’ll have to invest in a granite stone to flatten the sole plus some sandpaper, scotch Brite pads, etc. You’re trading money for time and sweat here, but you could end up with a perfectly usable and quality plane.

    Either way, a plane is only good as your sharpening system. Invest in something good and easy to use (or you won’t use it).

    For your application, I would recommend you first take steps to make your stock as square as possible. If your reference edge has a twist, bow, or cup, trying to plane or shoot something flush is going to be a nightmare.

    Check out Paul Sellers or Rob Cosman. They have great educational and instructional videos on YouTube and other platforms and mediums. Hope this was helpful!

    • Brokkr@lemmy.world
      3·
      3 days ago

      You don’t need a granite stone, we’ll at least you don’t need to invest in a super flat one.

      Get large format glass or porcelain tile from a big box, or find a company that installs counter tops and does the cutting for stone counters. Ask if you can have an offcut piece of quartz counter top.

      Having a cheap, flat surface is great for lots of tool sharpening, and it definitely does not need to be expensive or an investment.

      • litchralee@sh.itjust.worksOP
        1·
        3 days ago

        Hmm, I think a nearby recycled building materials store might have exactly this. Do I understand correctly that this offcut would only be used as a smooth, abrasive surface?

        • Captain Aggravated@sh.itjust.worksM
          2·
          3 days ago

          Not as an abrasive surface. As a reference surface. If you get adhesive backed sandpaper, you can use a flat surface as a lapping plate, both for flattening the sole of a plane, flattening the backs of chisels and plane irons, and as a surface to sharpen blades on.

          I actually use a piece of plate glass from the home center, but I’ll admit it’s less than ideal.