I can think of a few ways to do this.

Some get a little advanced like using what I’ll call a partial miter, like so: https://cdn.h2ouse.org/wp-content/uploads/the-miter-joint-768x359.jpg. I’m assuming you have a table saw to make the miter/bevel cuts in the first place, so you should be able to do this with the table saw and/or your handheld router with a square cutting bit and a guide.

There are three ways to reinforce a miter joint with dowels:

1. Hidden dowels. Drill holes that are perpendicular to the mitered surfacess, and it goes together like any other dowel joint. I’m unaware of a commercial jig for this; you would need to build your own to hold the drill bit perpendicular to the mitered face and at the correct location.

2. “Straight” dowels. Short version: Forget it’s a miter joint and dowel it together like it’s a butt joint. Through the face of one board into the end grain of the other board. I would recommend doing this with the cabinet already assembled; it will show, but you can make that look cool. Screws and plugs are another option here, though screwing into plywood edge “grain” isn’t always the strongest.

3. “Diagonal dowels.” Assemble the cabinet, drill a hole diagonally through the joint, cram a dowel through, saw and sand it flush.

If you’re comfortable making plunge cuts with your handheld router, you can do anything a Festool Domino can do, it just takes more time to set up.

Or you could do a splined miter. You can cut slots along the mitered/beveled surface with a table saw or your hand router with the guide, then make a spline that will fit in those grooves. Compared to a dowel joint, this doesn’t constrain the boards sliding along the length of the miter, but that can be a good thing because that’s one more axis you don’t have to worry about lining up your cuts.