This is awesome. I’ve been wanting to make a speaker. I think there are a lot of possibilities in a 3d printed enclosure that do not exist with conventional building methods. Something I’d like to try is blending wood and a 3d print, perhaps wood top and bottom with a 3d printed center.
Thanks for sharing.
I made a queen but I started with some plans from Ana White and changed things as I saw fit, either because I had tools that allowed me to use better methods or I wanted a different look…
Here’s a crappy picture, it weighs like 300 pounds
I got a delta 36-725T2, it was around $650 when I got it, looks like it’s gone up around $50 since then, but I still think that’s a good deal.
The fence is super solid, the saw is on wheels but they retract for a super stable feel, I really like it.
That being said, if you can’t buy a quality new saw (plan to spend at least $500 and harbor freight is NOT quality) I would start scouring the classifieds.
Any older craftsman 10" saw will be worth a look. Delta, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Bosch, and Rigid are also solid brands.
You should mainly narrow down if you are looking for a portable saw or not.
If you have an area you can dedicate to woodworking, I would highly recommend a cabinet or contractor saw. The stability and capacity you gain over a bench top or job site saw cannot be overstated. That said, if you do need a portable saw I would recommend a job site saw over a bench top model if you can afford it.
I cannot make any recommendation on portable saws, but for me, I was between the Rigid R4560 and the Delta. I ended up getting the Delta simply due to the fact that I felt the fence was a bit more stable. There are upgrades for both models, so really it’s just a personal preference.
That’s exactly what I was thinking, how is it possible?
But… It’s a legume?!
Do you know if the L2 and R2 use hall effect as well?
I play a lot of racing games, and I find that that L2 especially wears out prematurely on Xbox controllers.
Oddly I don’t have any problems with stick drift, just the L2 and R2 buttons become erratic.
I mean you can probably back up the trailers fine, but all the “stuff” involved with hooking up and unhooking is completely omitted from ATS and ETS/ETS2.
Shifting gears is another thing, I can shift a 6 speed, but if you put me behind a real 18 speed with splitter and range gearboxes, I guarantee I’d be grinding the shit out of those gears, over-rev or lug the engine… Etc.
The popular truck “sims” are not sims, they are basically one step above arcade games. And I say this as someone who likes playing them. They are fun, but they are not sims.
Flight instructors don’t want you to know this one simple trick.
As an avid player of flight sims, probably not too well on a fully loaded plane like a 747 or whatever. They are heavy, react slowly, and the controls are electronic so you can’t “feel” any resistance from the plane. Also the jet turbines take a while to spool up and down so you have to be pretty deliberate with your inputs.
Now if it were something like a smaller GA airplane, as long as it has tricycle gear and you aren’t landing into a crosswind, I feel like it would be fairly successful, and even if you get 10 ft from the ground and stall, or miss the touchdown point by 1000ft or so, you are only going 45-50mph tops at that point so the chances of you surviving are pretty good.
Compare that to a 747 where you’d be going much faster and the margin between landing and stalling is pretty thin, there’s a good chance you’d overshoot the landing point, come down hard, then crash into something at the end of the runway.
Now if it’s a taildragger and you don’t have any real training, there’s a good chance you’ll tail loop and crash once you touch down. You’d probably survive, but it would be ugly.
Edit: that is assuming you don’t smash the brakes and prop strike first.
Also beware that in the US what you might find as linseed oil is actually not pure linseed oil and contains all kinds of hardeners and evaporative ingredients to help it cure faster for furniture use. This kind is NOT food safe.
I have been using very light coats of flax seed oil which is designed for cooking on my wooden utensils and cutting boards with good success. You can also use a purpose designed cutting board wax like beeswax for utensils.
Sometimes our body tries to include traits of our ape ancestors.
But apes don’t have tails.
However approximately 25mya the monkey and ape lines split so itust have come from at least that far back.
My state of residence restricts access to certain sites. It’s all bullshit.
Anyway… The ISP is either a common carrier or a content provider. Pick a fucking lane. You can’t have half and half. Either you are responsible for ALL content provided or NONE.
If you choose none then you MUST NOT restrict access to any content.
If you chose ALL then you may restrict content based on what you are willing to take responsibility for. But in that case if someone does something illegal with content you provided you are liable.
MechanicalKeyboards folks are LIVID right now.
It’s been a while since I’ve done long exposure photography and composites, but my recollection is that excessive noise is a symptom of long exposure and high ISO, and stacking multiple shorter exposures into a composite will significantly reduce the noise of the final photo.