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Cake day: July 3rd, 2023

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  • LrdThndr@lemmy.worldtoSelfhosted@lemmy.worldFully Virtualized Gaming Server?
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    23 days ago

    I bought a cheap used Dell R710 on Facebook marketplace for like $100 or so, as well as an ups, rack, 10g switch, etc, from various other sellers. All told, I’ve got about $500 in my server setup.

    Installed proxmox on it. It’s “free” if you don’t buy a license. You just have to put up with a little nag screen when you open the control panel but it still works 100%, much like winrar.

    Works great.

    Edit: just realized this is in c/selfhosted AND I misunderstood the post. I’m gonna leave it here just on the off chance it’s useful to somebody, but I acknowledge it’s not what you’re looking for.


  • I simplified a bit. But it’s easy to bork the cable in the process, and it’s also possible the cable didn’t follow standard wire coloring.

    Here’s the step by step process for anybody who wants to do this but doesn’t know for sure what to do.

    You will need a razor blade or wire stripper and a wire cutter, as well as a roll of electrical tape.

    Also it should go without saying, but unplug both ends of the damn cable before you start. And if you’re using a blade, please be careful not to cut your finger open. Paying $800 for stitches in your finger hurts, defeats the purpose of being a cheapass and modding a cable to save a few bucks, and gets blood everywhere.

    1. Verify that the usb cable is a CHARGE AND SYNC cable. A charge only cable will not work.

    2. With your razor blade, make an incision into the usb cable about 6 inches from either end. Don’t cut too deep. Only go deep enough to cut the outer jacket. The cut should be slightly longer than your tape is wide. If you have a wire stripper, strip about a 3/4 inch section of the cable about 6 inches from either end.

    3. If using a blade, cut around the jacket at both ends of your incision and peel off the jacket between your cuts. You should have about 3/4 inch of unwrapped cable.

    4. If there’s a wire mesh wrapping the inside of the cable, cut SOME of the mesh, being careful to ensure that the mesh is still connected on both ends. If there’s a foil wrapper, find the seam and peel it back to expose the inner wires. You can cut the foil if necessary, but do not remove it entirely. Ensure that SOME of the foil and/or mesh is still attached at BOTH sides of the exposed section.

    5. The inner wires should now be exposed. There should be 4 wires - red black white and green. There might also be a 5th wire with no insulation at all, but this won’t be in all cables. It’s okay if it’s missing. However, if you don’t see ALL of those 4 colors or see different colors STOP. Tape the cable back up and get a different one. If you only see TWO wires, you have a charge only cable and it won’t work. Tape it back up.

    6. Clip the red wire TWICE, about an 1/8th inch apart. There should be a gap in the wire now if you line the ends up. DO NOT cut anything else inside the cable. The black white and green wires MUST remain intact for the cable to function.

    7. Bend the red wires up and out of the jacket. Close up the foil and/or mesh and wrap ONLY the exposed portion of the cable with ONE layer of electrical tape, leaving the red wires sticking up on either side of the tape. It’s okay if some metal is exposed on either side of the tape, but the red wires should be able to lay down on it without the ends touching anything metal.

    8. Lay the ends of the red wires down so that the ends are laying on the tape. The metal inside the red wire should NOT contact anything else that’s metal in the cable.

    9. Wrap the whole opened section of the cable with electrical tape to an inch or two on both sides of the open section.

    Plug it in and give it a try. You should have data-only usb cable that doesn’t deliver power now. Mark or label the cable in some way so that you don’t lose your mind trying to figure out why this damn usb cable doesn’t charge your phone when you pull it out of a box of random shit 5 years from now.


  • I bought a X1C and have never leveled it once. Everything is completely automatic, and I’ve never had a failed print.

    If I can see that the print quality is starting to go down (and by that I mean I can see a little ringing or something), I just hit the calibrate button and it does everything on its own with zero intervention besides the initial button.




  • In the US, “liberal” and “conservative” come from different interpretations of the constitution. A “liberal” is somebody who interprets it liberally, that is, that the people who wrote it couldn’t account for every possibility, so interpretations of it should take into account the “spirit” of the work and try to interpret what they wanted when they wrote it. A “conservative” interprets it conservatively, that is, that they only concern themselves with the “letter” of what it says, and that the law is limited to EXACTLY what the document says based on the language at the time it was written.

    Without taking obvious sides on this argument in this post, this is part of where the argument over the 2nd amendment comes from - The exact wording of the amendment isn’t up for debate - it’s written down right over there and anybody can read it. But what the two sides differ on is:

    1. What that wording actually means.
    2. Whether or not that wording is still relevant.
    3. Whether or not that section should be repealed by amendment.

    The literal exact wording is: “A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.”

    But what does that actually mean?

    To a conservative, it is interpreted using the original meanings of the words with no room for error. The words are sacrosanct and not up for revision or reinterpretation. “well regulated” in 1700s vocabulary means “well equipped and maintained”, and a militia was a group of citizens that organized themselves outside of military control. “to keep” means to own “and bear” means to have something in their possession at any time in any situation. So taken together, translated to modern language using the original meanings of the words, it means “A country’s security and freedom depend upon citizens coming together with proper equipment, maintenance, and training, so people shall always have the right to own and carry weapons.”

    But to a liberal, there’s room for interpretation and modification. In modern parlance, “well regulated” means “subject to rules and regulations”. A “militia” is a volunteer military organization. Taken together, they mean “A military organization with stringent rules.” So if the sentence starts with “A well regulated militia…”, then does the sentence only apply to those in the military? Combined with the next clause, it goes “A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of the free state…”. At the time of the writing, militias were the primary system of civilian security. But now we have military and civilian police for security, so do we still need civilian firearm ownership / public carry? If not, then is this clause even necessary anymore? Should an amendment eliminate it?

    Again, I’m not taking a side in this post. That’s not my goal here. Of course I have my own opinion, but to maintain neutrality, I’m not going to share it on this thread. I’m just trying to illustrate how the terms “conservative” and “liberal” grew out of different interpretations and thoughts regarding the US constitution.


  • I went on facebook marketplace and bought a pretty beefy decommissioned half-size rack. I think it’s about 18U or 20U. It’s even got wheels and came with a patch panel. I think I paid like $80 for it. Also bought a 1500VA rack-mount UPS from the same guy on the same trip.

    The thing’s been a dream. I mean… apart from having to run to a harbor freight to buy a drill so I could drill out a few rivets and disassemble it to fit it into the back of my mazda because my truck was out of commission.

    My advice though, is to make sure your rack is built for what you’re putting on it. Don’t use a two-post, non-floor-mounted rack for a heavy-ass UPS and servers, for instance. Likewise don’t use one of those wall-mounted network gear racks for heavy equipment. Get a 4-post or cabinet style rack. Check your local marketplaces. Be ready to make a drive if you need to. I drove 4 hours to go pick up the UPS and rack because it was perfect and a great deal.

    Server Rack







  • With RAID10, you’d have 8TB of storage that is both striped and mirrored. You’d get a 4x increase in read speed and a 2x increase in write speed. You’d be fault tolerant against AT LEAST one drive failure, possibly two depending on which drives fail.

    With RAID5, you’d have 12GB that is striped and parity checked. You’d get a 3x read speed increase and normal write speed. You’d be fault tolerant against a single drive failure.

    With RAID6, you’d have 8TB that is striped and parity checked. You’ll have a 2x increase in read speed and normal write speed. You’ll be fault tolerant against two concurrent drive failures.

    I recommend RAID10 if you want the all around speed boost and fault tolerance but don’t care so much about capacity;

    RAID6 if you care more about redundancy;

    RAID5 if you want a read speed boost and more capacity with a little fault tolerance mixed in.

    There’s also raid 0, which is gonna be hella fast all around but god help you if somebody farts too aggressively next to it; and raid 1 if you just want 4 redundant backups of the same drive.

    Personally, I’d go 10 unless you just really want the extra storage.



  • I’m paying $115/mo for 1G down 30M up, no data cap.

    I WAS paying $150 for the same until I called and bitched that new subscribers were getting the same for $89. So, still getting fucked, but at least they’re using lube now.

    There’s fiber literally on the next street over from me. Come the fuck on guys - fiber in my neighborhood. Let’s fucking gooooooooooo already. You’ve been teasing me for years. Quit pulling my hair and fuck me already damn.



  • I’m a full time senior PHP/JS developer.

    PHP has a bad rap because of a few factors.

    1, as you said, it’s accessible. It’s a very easy language to learn with a simple syntax and a simple tool chain. So often, it’s a dev’s first language. PHP holds your hand a little bit, but for the most part, security is on the developer, and when a dev doesn’t know any better, bad practices like interpolating values directly into your sql query seem like an easy way to get the job done, but at the hidden cost of opening up SQL injection vulnerabilities. But I’ve seen the same thing happen in Python code, so that’s not really a PHP problem so much as an education problem.

    2, earlier versions of PHP were, in a word, shit. They were rife with inconsistencies, poor structure, half-baked features, and it all ran like dogshit. Even today, there’s still some contention in the PHP world about whether to fix the inconsistencies or not, because so much legacy code would fall apart if they did. PHP <= 4 was a goddamned dumpster fire. 5 was MARGINALLY better and brought in proper OOP. 6 literally didn’t exist for various reasons. 7 was actually getting pretty good, now with optional static typing. 8 is BANGIN’. It’s fast, easy to work with, has a great feature set, and a huge community.

    3, it’s a big player. When you’re a huge player, you’re also a huge target. Wordpress is one of the most prolific web apps in existence, and it’s PHP based. Being huge, many more people are writing (shit) code for it, and many more (shit) people are trying to break it. Of course software that’s run on more servers is gonna be attacked more. It’s just numbers.

    TBH, today, working in both languages extensively, I’d gladly take a PHP based web app over a NodeJS based web app. Don’t get me wrong, I love node for what it is and the paycheck I get, but JS is a goddamned dumpster fire of a half-baked language.

    So tldr, don’t fear the PHP. As long as your software was written by somebody who knows their aaS from a hole in the ground, you’ll be fine.