I find skirts useful to make sure I’ve got consistent flow before it starts printing the object.
This way there isn’t oozing or a delay from a previous retraction. A good purge, as you say, to get primed and ready to go.
I find skirts useful to make sure I’ve got consistent flow before it starts printing the object.
This way there isn’t oozing or a delay from a previous retraction. A good purge, as you say, to get primed and ready to go.
I thought I’d add that it looks like it’s overextruded. So much that the filament is being “pushed” out and curling back around the nozzle.
It could be the e steps, flow rate, etc but it could also be that your Z offset needs to be adjusted back away a smidge.
That could be part of the inconsistent print since the tool head movement over one section of the bed vs another may be affected by the layer below based on how the filament curled there.
If you want to do a deep dive into adjusting/calibrating the Ender I did write up a bit here (although that post does relate to Klipper and I mention settings/adjustments for Klipper it starts purely with the physical printer itself and builds on it)
If a person is at the intro/intermediate level that advice may be sound enough. Since they’re less likely to apply proper rules to include those ranges of IP’s etc.
Assuming it’s advising disabling it at the router/switch level and not just a per device level.
Better would be to explain: Disable this until you’re familiar with the following concepts (see cited books/material for more info)
Exactly… this printer is useful honey.
I can make parts for the printer, accessories for filament management for the printer.
Halloween decorations… once I get the printer back online when I have this mod finished.
Parts for another printer.
Mounts for the brooms… when more filament comes in since I used the last of it for the parts for the new printer.
Save 450 on a unique appliance part they’re not making anymore which now justifies the thousands I’ve spent on this thing.
Seriously though. It is a fun hobby and if you want to just print and make things and not tinker there are plenty of good options out there. Me? I like tinkering. It’s a blast.
If I don’t design and print something I could buy I might be tempted to do more mods for my printer.
Things like this give us… balance. Luckily I have a new project… building a Voron so it’s both something new AND printing printer parts.
I found this one online from last year
https://www.printables.com/model/356486-cat-scratcher-cardboard-cutter-v2
It has its strength. The downside to blender is it’s geometry based unlike Fusion and others that are parametric.
Where this shines, for example, is when you’re defining a circle with a given radius. If it’s 4mm in a cad program and you export to STL it will be polygon based. But you can adjust the density of the export and, if you need to, scale your cad up 200%, 300%, etc and export again. Always resulting in the closest approximation of that circule in the stl or export. This way you don’t lose any fidelity. Blender does have some great tools for interpolating points in a mesh so it’s not useless either.
The best analogy I can think of is raster and vector. Doubling the size of a vector doesn’t result in aliasing. But, likewise, doing a high quality image of something photorealistic is not great on vector.
I use Fusion for cad modeling. The parametric design workflow allows me to adjust measurements, etc and have them show downstream, etc. But if I’m going to import something that’s already an 3d model I’ll use blender and mesh mixer to cleanup the model first.
I’ve also used just blender when using game assets to pose a model before exporting to a mesh for use in a slicer. Since, again, it’s the tool for the job.
Very cool. And gives me some ideas for Halloween costume lighting
Sounds like they’re running their own LLM instance on googles cloud infrastructure vs using something like OpenAI via API.
As web dev parlance it makes sense but for marketing it is definitely confusing and they should do better.
Tnut should do the trick. If not you could use the same bolt all the way through for the tensioner but that might be a pain to line up right.
I think you misunderstand.
Here’s an example. It has the math but doesn’t require that you “know” how to work the formulas or equations.
Because he’s doesn’t require that you know the math. He shows it, explains it, and visualizes the concept.
Quantum Mechanics 1b - Birth of the Quantum II
I can’t remember which video it was but in one he explains about how Einstein was shown that the Heisenberg uncertainty principle was related to relativity in a series of letters. At which point Einstein conceded the point.
All this was done showing the equation… and then shifting the pieces around and explaining what they were. Until at the end what was left… was e=mc^2.
Edit: It was this video but I misremembered. It uses Einsteins equations to prove the uncertainty principle
Quantum Mechanics 3b - Probability and Uncertainty II
My point isn’t that the math isn’t there. It’s just that you’re not dropped into a video with here’s a formula… solve it and you’ll see why XYZ is true. The equations themselves are explained, visualized, etc.
If there’s a concept such as bell curves he shows that without requiring you do the numbers by showing how random motion will lead to certain probabilities over others.
Check this out
Quantum Mechanics 1a - Birth of the Quantum I
And then compare to this next episode in the series
Quantum Mechanics 1b - Birth of the Quantum II
And this later one. Where he gets more and more into the mathematics. But you’re not just thrown into the deepend at the start
It’s not at all. I’m saying it was good then and it is now.
It’s gotten heavier and more technical but that’s because as it goes on you learn and it gets deeper. And yet they still find a way to make it accessible even though they’re obviously still only scratching the surface.
As a counter point via science is really good but tries to avoid the deep math as much as possible while explaining the concepts behind it. All the while it’s been pure science and less of the popular topic as a way to introduce the science.
It’s still fantastic. But the tone was different.
They pulled us in with the quirky, and tricked us into learning about space time curvature, spin, Higgs fields and tensors.
The sly dogs.
If I recall correctly that hole goes all the way through the extrusion.
Worst case you can use a bolt and nut.
Best upgrades for me was the following in order of overall impact
Klipper
BTT Skr mini e3v3 board
Silicon bed spacers
Klackender mod by KevinAkaSam
G10 build plate
Orbiter extruder and dragonfly hotend for direct drive
Belted Z mod by KevinAkaSam
More recent EBB36 canbus for the tool head mainly because it frees up some ports on the control board for other things like my Nevermore.
For overall quality and reliability the following have the biggest impact.
Ensuring the physical frame is as square as possible. As well as adjusting and shimming things such as folded aluminum foil under the Z extrusions to get them square with the base.
The board and Klipper are huge since it makes it easier to use the klack probe (Klicky for ender) and the silicone spacers allow me to dial in the screws with adjust_screws.
And skew correction because my X gantry is twisted (tested that on granite counter top) and after I’ve done everything else to ensure it’s physically right i still had to work around some of it with software.
Now I can just fire it up and print PLA, ABS (it’s in a grow tent enclosure), PETG and TPU without any issue.
The g10 plate works great with all of them, Klipper can compensate for any warping, build offset as long as the screws are properly adjusted (which I test every couple of months or after I’ve had a print that really didn’t want to come off.
I’m building a trident myself right now and I’m using the “Frankender” to do it with really great quality results.
What kind of printer is it?
It’s all fun and games until some guy from the gym comes to battle you
And if you’re doing direct drive the more constrained path wouldn’t be a benefit. I’ve already purchased wider ID tubing for my trident build.
Depending on what it has to be printed out if your local library might be a good choice if they offer the service.
If I recall correctly it’s important to be running ECC memory right?
Otherwise corrupter bites/data can cause file system issues or loss.