What are you talking about? There is no pvp and you can set your lobby to friends only or private. Nobody is invading you buddy.

Hey, just saw this post. You can ignore my other long winded reply. I think the p1s is a great choice. I didn’t realize the cost was so close either.

Not sure what you mean by the material available. Are you saying the material available that you’ll be able to print?

If so, I can expand on this a bit. You can print PLA, PETG, and TPU absolutely flawlessly on the p1p. Far better than I was ever able to do on any of my previous printers. And unless you are going to be making parts that are going to see exposure to a lot of heat or pressure, that really should cover most of your bases.

To print stuff like ABS, ASA, or PC you’ll really want an enclosure, and that goes for just about any 3D printer you get. If you do go the route of the p1p, you can actually print yourself an enclosure for fairly cheap. Look up arc or vision enclosures. That being said though, the enclose kit to convert your p1p to a p1s is only $150 which is very competitive with any self made closure when you factor in acrylic costs.

So, my recommendation, if you think you don’t really need ABS or ASA, buy the p1p. It will work great for you. If you decide down the road you want to enclose it, buy the kit directly from bambulabs or print one yourself.

So… I just bought a p1p and it’s just about the best decision I could have made when it came to this hobby. The thing just freaking works, and it works well. I don’t think I have a single complaint about mine.

That being said, they just released a p1s model. This is basically the p1p but enclosed so you can print more difficult materials like ABS. It also allows you to buy a combo with the AMS system that will let you print 4 colors at once for much cheaper than if you bought them both separately.

I really wanted to go with the open source prusa printer, but honestly at the price point I just could not justify it. The p1p is just as fast if not faster. Just as reliable. And actually shipped fully featured, for cheaper than even a mk3s+ kit. It’s really the no brainer option at that price point if you can get over it being closed source.

I guess I forgot Tumblr was still a thing.

I could definitely use it with rarbg being gone. Thanks for doing this though very cool.

Very cool. I just finished the enclosure on my printer so I’ma give that a try

Hmm the car is parked in the garage so I just kind of assumed it was the UV during driving but yea I guess it must have been the heat.

Any reason why you chose cf filament for this? Seems like it’s not under any stress that would need the tougher filament. Just curious I have yet to print in a cf filament.

It’s funny cause I always kinda thought that was a bit of hyperbole regarding uv exposure.

Made a bracket to fix a broken mount for our back seat cam in our car. Printed in pla just to test the dimensions. It worked so I left it in the car. Didn’t make it a single day. Completely warped.

Reprinted in petg and it’s been going strong for 2 weeks now.

Which filament is that? I’ve been using hatchbox glow in the dark pla and mine definitely doesn’t glow nearly as bright as that.

My second printer arrived a month ago, and im using that to convert my first printer into a voron 0.2. so that only still counts as 2 right?

Also the rook.

I play rainbow6 siege quite a bit, and anytime I spot dome security cameras I get the intense urge to take them out.

Yea, the prusa Mk4 is a great option for you, but honestly even an mk3s kit might be worth looking into. Save a bit of money and you can always buy the upgrade kit to the mk4 later down the line of you deem it necessary.

If you want a printer working straight out of the box and don’t care about it being closed source, I cannot recommend the p1p enough. it has been night and day change from my last printer. literally just set it and forget it.

I would definitely steer clear of the ender 3s or other i3 style clones. You spend 95% of your time trying to tune and fix your printer instead of actually using it.

Also, since you don’t care about printing anything other than pla, you shouldn’t need an enclosure. with any of the mk3s, mk4, p1p, or x1c you are going to be able to print pla and petg perfectly fine with minimal tweaking.

Before I can recommend anything, I have to ask you some questions.

Are you wanting a printer that you will spend more time tweaking and modifying than actual printing? Or do you want something that just works right out of the box?

Do you care about it being open source and upgradeable?

What’s your price range?

Do you want to print miniatures and other fine detailed objects?

How are the voc’s? I just upgraded to a p1p and I’ve just finishing building out an enclosure for it. Not actually sure what the extruder on this is rated for but I’m upgrading the hotend to hardened steel next so I can print a bento box in asa.

Might give PC a look if it’s something I think this printer can handle.

My only problem with petg is it is super susceptible to humidity. And once you get some moisture in there, it gets really sticky and stringy.

I don’t think I’ve ever had a filament jam as often as petg. I do enjoy printing in it though as you almost never have to worry about warping.

They make PC filament? TIL. Seems like it would be really difficult to print with.

You say this like it’s a bad thing. If I could get away with just paying for my one hockey team, instead of the legit, 3 fucking services you have to have currently to watch an entire season, I would do it on a heartbeat.