I do that but not because of empathy or karma or anything. I just don’t want bug guts smeared across my wall.

So “yes”, then.

Of course Trump is part of Azathoth’s plan.

Username checks out.

My first thought was something along the lines of a “zip bomb”. For every “M” in the input string, it’d use more than a KiB of memory. But still, it’d take a string of millions of "M"s to exhaust memory on even a low-end modern server. Still probably not a good idea to expose to untrusted input on a public networked server, though. And it could easily peg a CPU core for a good while. Very good leveraged target for DDOSing.

Just get hired at any company that’s heavily pressuring employees to use Claude or whatever and employees are drinking the Koolaid. You’ll spend much of your time fixing LLM fuckups.

Be honest. Is this some fetish of yours?

I’m still mulling whether this really qualified as a shower thought, but I gave you an upvote.

This is the wrong community for this post.

You sure you didn’t get an agitated cicada stuck in there?

Seriously, though. It could be the stepper or even just a cooling fan.

Freedom is to proprietary as libertarian is to authoritarian. Tradition is to distruption as political right is to political left. Better would be for the x axis to be left-to-right disruption->tradition and the y axis to be bottom-to-top freedom->proprietary. So, rotated 90° counterclockwise and then mirrored left-to-right.

Measuring the mesh cold is a waste ot time.

You say that, but it’s a hell of a lot better than nothing. I remember the days of not having no Z-probe on my other printer and not being able to use more than (generously) a 3"x3" square of my 8"x8" bed without really bad bed adhesion issues and no amount of manual leveling would help. Even on the aforementioned Ender 3 V2 Neo, I almost never have bed adhesion issues. My estimation of my experience is that leveling a cold bed is about 97.5% as helpful as leveling the bed hot.

Diaspora?

Ohm mani padme autismmmmm.

Or is it purely just that I whispered the word ai

Speaking for myself: yup, that.

That and using the term “alignment” like some kind of longtermist weirdo.

10 seconds of googling indicates this is true for Windows and Mac as well. I haven’t looked specifically, but I’d be a little surprised if it wasn’t true for Android and iOS as well.

But really, why would they add rules to prevent people from using certain unicode codepoints in filenames? Should they disallow Klingon as well? Kanji? Of course not. Emojis are codepoints just like U+0061 is.

Of course there are good reasons to disallow things like newlines and forward slashes in Linux filenames, but what specifically would even be the argument for preventing emojis?

Not OP, but I have a printer (Ender 3 v2 Neo) with a z-probe that when you tell it to autolevel, it sets the bed and nozzle target temperatures to 0°. (As in, turns both heating elements off.) That’s on the manufacturer’s stock firmware. Even if you preheat before autoleveling, by the time it’s done leveling, it’s much cooler. So autoleveling hot is sometimes not an option.

All that said, I’ve never had anything like the issues OP has on my Ender 3 v2 Neo. But maybe OP has a bigger bed and that might make a difference as to whether autoleveling on a cold bed could cause OP’s issue.

Two theories: first layer expansion and overextrusion.

If it’s first layer expansion, what’s happening is that your nozzle is too close to the bed when printing the first layer (so, less than 0.2mm if you’re printing at 0.2mm layer height) causing a line of filament to “spread out” more than it should. Over long lines of filament like those on your first layer, that effect can compound. Ultimately it’s trying to put more plastic down between those outer layers than can fit, causing it to “ripple”/wrinkle up. The fix would be adjust your z-probe-offset to make sure your nozzle has just a little bit more space above the bed on the first layer and then autolevel. Or on a machine with no z-probe (with just a z-endstop), to manually level the bed but leave a little more room between the nozzle and bed. If you go too far, you’ll end up with first layer adhesion problems. Like, the first layer will curl up on the corners or will pop entirely off the bed mid-print.

If overextrusion, what’s happening is roughly the same as I explained above. More filament than will fit is being laid down between those outer layers, causing it to wrinkle. The fix is to turn down your extrusion rate.

I don’t think I’ve ever had issues with overextrusion myself. But I’m pretty familiar with that first-layer-expansion issue. And to be honest, when I have that issue, the wrinkling I have always happens parallel to the lines of filament on that first layer, while the wrinkles in your picture seem to go perpendicular. I still think those are the first things I’d try, though. So YMMV, but hopefully what I said above helps.

Also, I’d be skeptical that flotsam or scunge from previous prints could be the problem here specifically. Especially after soap and water didn’t solve it.

Anyway, my 2¢. Good luck! Definitely worth reporting back if you find a solution!

The differences are all the parts you don’t want anyway.

Followup question.

“As opposed to what?”

If everyone is “insane”, what would a “not insane” person look like if one hypothetically did exist?