In light of the above, then, I hereby propose that squirrels get renamed to “treegulls.”

The original Legend of Zelda. I still have it on cartridge and every once in a while I’ll just steamroll the entire game and whoop Ganon’s ass. I can usually do it in about 4 hours.

I don’t use any glitches or speedrun optimizations, I just know where everything is and what order to do things in.

That’s remotely possible, and I would be inclined to agree if the circumstances around this weren’t so fishy to begin with.

E.g. why is the police report heavily redacted? Why has the suspect not been named? This is highly unusual, and suggests there’s something more going on. I’d doubt very highly the grand jury were given the full picture.

It’s pretty much a done deal that we’ll never know more. Someone is making an effort to bury this.

Highly unlikely. Even in bumpus old corners of Texas, the state is absolutely obsessed with doing anything to take away any citizen’s gun rights and will do so by nailing them with some kind of felony, and a negligent discharge scenario that results in somebody getting killed in normal circumstances would definitely qualify.

People in Texas may love their guns, but the cops in Texas are the same as cops everywhere and if they had their way nobody would have the guns except them.

This points to me that someone involved in law enforcement, someone involved with the government, or someone with very high level connections and/or a lot of money was the one responsible for this and that’s why it was swept under the carpet. If it were just a regular Joe there’s no way.

Before anyone gets too excited, this still requires sintering to finish your part, i.e. it has to be baked to a metal-fusing temperature in a special purpose kiln that is so expensive that it’ll require a mortgage to buy one, or you’ll have to send all of your parts away to get processed and wait for them to get sent back.

The headline here is that this stuff requires less postprocessing in that regard, but it is still absolutely not for hobbyists or home printers.

I keep plenty of stock of this stuff and use it on plastic screen covers and bezels, plus it also does wonders on motorcycle helmet visors, sunglasses lenses (provided they’re not mirrored), and the Slipstreamer fairing on my Honda Shadow.

It does a credible job of defogging plastic headlight housings as well, but it takes a lot of elbow grease and a bitchin’ long time.

I’ve never seen naptha (i.e. Zippo lighter fluid) do anything to any painted or finished surface, nor any of the plastics I’ve ever tired it on. I’ve been using the stuff in that context for decades, to the extent that I literally purchase it by the gallon. (I also use it in my lighters, because painter’s naptha is like 2% of the cost per volume of brand name Zippo fluid despite being the same stuff.)

WD-40 contains nonvolatile oils that will leave a difficult to clean off residue behind and if you use it on anything porous it will soak in and possibly stain the surface while being functionally impossible to remove without using yet more solvents. For that reason it’s not really a great way to get stickers off of things, especially things that you’d like to remain non-greasy or may need to stick something to again at some point in the future (paint, tape, etc.).

Naptha will evaporate entirely on its own given enough time, and you can even use it on paper and printed surfaces (excluding inkjet printed things, in my experience, which it will smear) with no harm done after it fully dries.

I have a strong suspicion this crowd would have voted for their fascist candidates regardless of whether or not Americans had gun rights at the time. Fascism (not to mention other broadly similar strains of right wing authoritarianism) has managed to rise in several places throughout history and all over the world, without the specific assistance of our deep south gun nuts.

Tons of liberal supporters are also in favor of gun rights. It’s just that nobody’s catering to them, because they’re less lucrative of a voting bloc than racist rednecks.

I await with interest your explanation as to how and why private gun ownership “caused and supported” the current unlawful government, considering that the government is perfectly capable of obtaining its own guns and supplying them to its goons without our input or intervention. And has been doing so for a little over two centuries. Furthermore, gun laws are deliberately structured such that the police and various government forces throughout the country enjoy considerably less restriction (or even none) on the type, number, and nature of guns that they’re allowed to own and use. Even if the individuals in question are retired or no longer on active duty.

Well, the one in the headline is so hilariously far out of scale that it could probably fire actual life-sized F-35’s like missiles from its wing hardpoints.

I personally do not trust ISP provided routers to be secure and up to date, nor free of purposefully built in back doors for either tech support or surveillance purposes (or both). You can expect patches and updates on those somewhere on the timescale between late and never.

Therefore I always put those straight into bridge mode and serve my network with my own router, which I can trust and control. Bad actors (or David from the ISP help desk) may be able to have their way with my ISP router, but all that will let them do is talk to my own router, which will then summarily invite them to fuck off.

Likewise, I would not be keen on using an ISP provided router’s inbuilt VPN capability, which is probably limited to plain old PTPP – it has been on all of the examples I’ve touched so far – and thus should not be treated as secure.

You can configure an OpenWRT based router to act as an L2TP/IPSec gateway to provide VPN access on your network without the need for any additional hardware. It’s kind of a faff at the moment and requires manually installing packages and editing config files, but it can be done.

That, and as a first time rider it’s probably a good idea to have a bike with all of the safety features – like brakes – known to be working. And without the possibility of mystery stalling issues or randomly conking out on the road, or bits falling off, or suspension components being wonky, etc.

It’s much harder to learn to ride on a bike that doesn’t friggin’ work right.

Try to find one that hasn’t been cut up too badly (“cafe”, “bob”, etc).

This is the way.

I’ve lost count of how many times my idiot friends have gotten themselves ripped off by buying a bike with half of the frame cut off just so some asshole could make a bobber, or whatever the fuck, to the point that it now won’t pass state inspection anymore. So they’ve just dumped it on Craigslist in the hopes that they can get out of it and make it some other sucker’s problem.

Of course said other sucker inevitably winds up bringing it to me, Captain Wrenches On Stuff, to bail them out.

You ought to need a license before you’re allowed to buy an angle grinder…

I almost bought one of those but I wound up with my Orion instead, because everything was unobtainium during COVID.

I don’t see any luggage on there. Did you carry all your kit in a backpack? If so, good on you. That’s dedication, right there.

If you’re really keen on getting a possibly non-running used bike as your first, I would definitely recommend sticking with something that’s a single cylinder for simplicity, and probably something that has a carburetor rather than fuel injection, because mystery carb issues are easier to solve than mystery electrical issues, especially given peoples’ pathological predilection to getting mystified and intimidated by wires. That’s not casting any admonition on your personally or your skills, but rather a prediction that you won’t get much decent advice from punters online as soon as your problems are found to be electrical and everyone either immediately tunes out, begins spouting absolute bullshit, or both. Conversely, there is always the nuclear option for a carb which is yeet the entire thing into the fuck-it bucket and just replace it.

The Honda Super Cub and its myriad derivatives (which, surprisingly, encompass both the Grom and the Monkey) is a popular option. The new ones are fuel injected and computerized, but the classic Cubs have carbs. You can get Chinese clones of these for not very much money, also. If you really want to wrench, a Chinese bike will offer you no choice…

Also consider a Suzuki TU250 which is sort of the quintessential standard beginner’s bike, or possibly an old Honda CB250.

If you’re confident in dealing with a twin cylinder bike, the other obvious suggestion everyone will offer is the Ninja 250 (the older ones are carbed, but have two carbs rather than one) or Honda CB350, which is also a parallel twin. The Yamaha V Star 250 is also a small V twin, with a fairly light weight.

The height of various motorcycles is a perpetually contentious topic, especially when offering advice to beginner riders. Some people will insist that shortness can be overcome with skill and that one should just practice and git gud. Other people will say that you should eliminate a variable and a lot of anxiety by getting a little bike that you can easily flat-foot as your first.

I have no input in this. Get what makes you comfortable.

However, I will recount what we did, vis-a-vis myself and my wife, and trying to find a motorcycle (not a scooter, which she already has one of) that she could actually sit on. We found that the obvious answer, the Honda Grom, was actually too tall for her. We settled on a Suzuki Vanvan RV200, which she can sit on and get both feet on the ground. (It’s third from the right in the banner image at the top of this community.) This was available in both 125 and 200cc guises, but I don’t think the 125 was ever sold in America. It was sold in Europe where they have tiered licenses with a 125cc restriction, though.

Edit to add: I would really advise against getting a non-running bike as your first motorcycle. I get the appeal of wanting to tinker with it, but it’s all too easy to wind up with something that’ll be both a basket case and a money pit, and learning to ride on something like that will probably be more frustrating than it’s worth. If you want a project, get one as your second bike. Also remember the Ironclad Law Of The List of Craig (and also Facebook marketplace): Any time some asshole says “all it needs is x, y, z,” that’s never actually all it needs. If it were that easy, the loser selling it would have fixed himself it and he’d be selling it in running condition.

Just yesterday I created !printmything@lemmy.world for this very purpose, so I’ll plug it again. Well, not miniatures specifically, but rather a place for people who haven’t got printers to ask for help from people who do.

I’m not in Oz so I figure shipping to you would be quite prohibitive. But you might be able to connect with someone in your country, who can ship printed stuff to you more cheaply and – importantly – without having to fuck around with customs.

The go-to wisdom is that detailed miniatures are best printed with a resin printer. You can do it with a traditional FDM (filament) printer but it’s harder to get the small details reproduced, and FDM printers can’t print in midair so you either have to be very careful to take that into account with your design or do a lot of work with removing and doing the finish work around printed supports. So you probably want to find somebody with a resin machine.

That may be a good idea.

I’m sure we’ll figure out what so the other good ideas are as we go along…

Not that I can find.

I was about to say something monumentally stupid, along the lines of, “somebody ought to make it.”

The hell with it. I just made it.

!printmything@lemmy.world

Yes, that part specifically is a bit braindead.

It’s probably because they can’t be arsed to figure out who has the rights and who doesn’t, so they just loaded up the ban shotgun.

There are oodles of commercial 3D printing services that will run off whatever you send them for a price. Craftcloud, Shapeways, Xometry, etc.

Or printathing.com, if you’d like to get hooked up with a private(ish) person to do it for you.

Or just ask at any of the innumerable online spaces where people talk about 3D printing (like right here) and someone can probably do it for you, too.

My exception is not to people printing things for others for a specific purpose if asked to. It’s against stealing other people’s work and cynically trying to turn it around for a profit, without putting any effort into it and probably implicitly passing it off as if it were your own work in the process. Likewise, I don’t object to someone designing their own thing and selling their own thing on Etsy. But just to put it into perspective I imagine most people would also rank it as Not Cool to go on Etsy and start trying to sell, say, just printouts random stuff you downloaded from DeviantArt.