5 KILOwatt hours is a typical laptop battery? Aren’t they more like 50-100wh?

Love the idea and article, but…

just 800 watts, enough to power a small fridge or charge a laptop,

I want to see a laptop with an 800w charger.

Yeah, it feels like the entire time he’s really trying to link these games to actual deaths during war that seems pretty tenuous, largely due to his own “ick” factor that “his thing” is being used by the military.

The section in the middle where he essentially asks all his interviewees basically “have you killed anyone” is pretty awkward. Like, of course these people don’t really want to talk about that. Nobody wants to go around thinking they’re directly responsible for preventable deaths. It’s like he wants someone to just say “Am i the baddie?” like that Mitchel and Webb sketch.

It also completely glosses over the way that “play” is often just training for something more violent. Tag is a fun game until someone brings a knife. But there’s a world of difference between “you sunk my battleship” and the Bismarck. It’s like he’s somehow taken the stance that video games cause violence in the most roundabout way possible.

It’s a shame because the video is good but it could be so much more interesting diving into examples about how these games actually work and are used instead of hemming and hawing the whole time over his imagined Cluedo to murder piperine.

If you have about 20 minutes or less if you crank the speed, this podcast about laugh tracks is pretty interesting.

https://slate.com/culture/2018/04/decoder-ring-explores-the-history-and-meaning-of-the-laugh-track.html

Ok, I’m a bit out of the loop but is Deadlock actually any good? Like, most of what I’ve heard is that it just isn’t very fun. Even though they kinda fell apart the auto battler and the card game from Valve were generally fairly well received from what I remember. But everything I’ve heard about Deadlock is that it’s not fun, and is bringing the worst elements of DOTA with it.

Maybe since it’s barely even a thing yet, it might wildly change since that’s part of the Valve MO.

Ah, ok. The Unifi stuff is a bit weird like that. I recommend installing the controller on a computer if you continue to have issues. You don’t have to run it all the time, just use it for config and then turning it off is fine. It’ll give you way more information and control over exactly how the AP is set up.

Which model is it? As far as I’m aware all the Unifi APs need the controller for config. It doesn’t need to stay running unless you want a couple features for large deployments but you do need to run it to set things up initially. The Air Max / uisp lines are the ones with web based config.

Do you have a continuously running unifi controller or is it only running when you do the config? Does it do the same thing with the controller opposite to how it is now (ie if you aren’t running it does it do it when you leave the controller on)?

Are you running the 2.4 and 5 as separate SSIDs or the same one?

Are you on the latest controller and firmware?

We use a few Schlage connect zwave deadbolts, and they have been basically rock solid. We’re using them through Smartthings, but home assistant should work just as well. We have hardwired zwave light switches next to all of them, apparently that can help with the reliability since they will act as zwave repeaters in case the lock doesn’t pick up the signal first time - especially for changing the codes.

Are they a perfect lock that no one will be able to pick? Probably not, but it’s a lot faster to just put a brick through your window no matter how good your locks are.

Warning: Papaton is borderline impossible when you combine Bluetooth headphone and controller lag.

Propaganda from who? Big newspaper? Big book publisher? Big stick and wheel?

I had a similar problem recently. I switched to a titanium heat break since I apparently have a habit of tightening the aluminum ones a bit too hard, and it was fine for a while but I started getting clogs basically every print at about the 10 minute mark that seemed like heat creep. I couldn’t figure out what the deal was since titanium should be even better about heat creep.

It turned out that the machining for the heat breaks might have been too rough I think? Or at least not “perfect” in some way. I had a ton of problems until I “seasoned” them with mineral oil. Basically throw a couple drops in the heat break with it at about 250. Obviously be very careful since it’s flammable. You could probably accomplish something similar with an old school filament oiler.

To be fair there’s a Linux version of the bedrock server. But yeah not having it on the steam deck is pretty annoying.

To be fair I’d call it a wash. Bedrock fixes a lot of weird stuff like quasi connectivity and being able to push things like chests with pistons but also introduces it’s own bugs like weird timing things and randomly taking fall damage. There’s also weird differences like being able to do things with cauldrons or just like minor texture differences that they are slowly bringing into sync.

Because Bedrock runs on phones, tablets, consoles, and a host of other random crap, and does so relatively well. Because of that the install base and playtime especially among younger players is actually massively skewed toward Bedrock being the more used. Add to that rumors that the Java codebase at least was a terrible mess, and the performance issues Java edition still has to this day and it’s no wonder they wanted to do a full rewrite, especially after having to make things like the console editions and even one for the 3DS.

The windows launcher is annoying though.

Yeah newsprint would be a pain in an inkjet depending on exactly what it’s like. It might not even be much thinner, it’s often a little “fluffy” so it can be printed fast.

If you take it in somewhere and get it spiral / coil bound that’s probably your best bet if you don’t want to do a binder. You can do it yourself but you basically need a little desktop machine to do the punching which is annoying unless you’re doing it regularly.

Traditional hardcover probably won’t work for you. That involves printing a bunch of booklets called signatures then sewing them together and it’s a whole thing. Basically there’s a reason well made hardcover books are expensive.

You could do perfect or tape binding pretty easy though. Essentially you glue all the edges to a backing and then wrap a cover around it. It works ok for low usage, but if you want it to lay flat or hold up to abuse you’ll have problems. You can kind of mitigate that by using a gpod spine backing but it’s not a perfect solution. If the copy you have isn’t already laid out for printing it may be worth it to edit it a bit so the contents are farther from the spine if you do that, but it makes printing a bit more complicated.

So, I’ve never pirated a book but I do have some printing and binding knowledge, so some of this might be off base.

If the original book isn’t fully chungus it’s probably printed on a low weight newsprint, a low weight coated paper, or something weird like vellum or scritta. Problem is most of that is going to be specialty and only really available in rolls or large sheets through a distributor.

Most of the thinner stuff you’ll be able to find in sheets has become a thing with fountain pen lovers. Look for Tomoe River or Bank paper. They are in the 50gsm range and should be a bit thinner than normal 75ish gsm copy paper. It’s going to be way more expensive than normal printer paper but it should be thinner. The other issue is actually getting your printer to reliably print on thinner paper. Home printers, especially inkjets, really don’t deal with thin paper particularly well. Lasers usually do better since they tend to use a different paper pickup and path, but they can still have issues.

Your printer should have a thin paper setting to reduce the amount of ink that it uses so you don’t get as much bleed. The other thing you’ll have to look out for is that those papers will take longer to dry than normal paper, so if your printer has a drying time you’ll probably need to set it as high as it will go. You might even want to wait a day before flipping it over for the duplex print. Which you definitely should some that will literally halve the size of the book. It will probably be fine anyway since this is likely a multi day project just given how long it will take to spit 1000 pages out of an inkjet.

Unless you absolutely need to have the whole thing with you all the time, I would consider printing it in volumes. Even if you duplicate sections like an index or glossary or reference section or whatever, you’re still probably going to have a lot less trouble and maybe spend less.

You need quotes around the font name. Courier works because it’s one word.

We should defederate with any server that has less than 7 degrees of separation with Meta. We can call it the Kevin Bacon rule.

Few options:

Tree supports seem to deal with that kind of thing a lot better than standard supports. I would try turning them on and see how they generate.

You can add a small support cube / pillar with the “print as support” option and just manually check for that kind of thing. Not automatic but probably the most efficient option for print time and material.

An option everyone seems to overlook is support roof, which for large flat areas and weird spots like that can be super useful. It basically prints a raft on top of your supports so there’s basically no bridging.

You can also build clever things into the STL if it’s your own model. See this thread. essentially you add very small (.2mm ish) features in Z that will make the slicer bridge instead of print the hole in air.