𞋴𝛂𝛋𝛆

  • 92 Posts
  • 685 Comments
Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 9th, 2023

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  • Why are you confrontational? I’m just casually tossing out ideas and learning. Of course I understand what you are saying. However, busybox covers the core of a POSIX system and with the size constraints, it is likely standardising something like this. On Gentoo, such a change might be more straight forward instead of some sloppy hack with a wrapper.

    I imagine you must be good at memorizing a lot of information. I am not. I am good at abstraction and must explore in abstraction to understand heuristically. I understand heuristic connections better than most people. Neither method is better or worse. Being toxic about interchanges of information is useless nonsense. I know far more than I let on, but I’m well aware that I am a jack of all trades and expert of none. All the projects don’t matter relative to those that are used the most. If most projects can be colorized, it will motivate others to fall in line or prompt rewrites assuming such a change was popular. Colorized manpages and help pages should be standard and should have been a decade ago. No one is using an IDE without syntax highlighting. The terminal is an extension of the abstracted language of Linux. Without universal syntax highlighting for new users in these spaces, Linux is presenting an outdated language format ripe for deprecation. These details have long term consequences.








  • Add some z hop. A fast move is likely contacting a lifted spot or some ooze. I have had this happen before. It can move the plate or skip steps in the motor which is undetectable unless you see it happen. The belt does not need to slip; only enough force to overcome the motor step fields’ strength is required. During fast movements, it is likely skipping some steps or transitioning from full steps to micro stepping which can create potential vulnerable points where the holding field strength is less than ideal in a compromise to create faster accelerations/decelerations. You have got to remember that 3d printers are cheap largely because they are not absolute position linear systems. All motions are relative to (0,0) home. The (0,0) home location is precise, but it is not accurate at all. Every step the machine makes is only ever precise but is accurate relative to the (0,0) home location. Therefore any skipped steps are catastrophic. The primary issue that causes this is that the steppers are in an unknown position upon first powering them up and they move randomly to whatever field step position happens to be closest. Likewise, all end stop methods do not trigger accurately to within a single step field position. It gets complicated to actually make an accurate linear system for things like IDEx or CNC.






  • Yes actually. It is a great hot fix for car stuff. With my auto body shop, I always carried a few feet of tie wire and a Leatherman because I often dealt with damaged fresh auction cars that I just needed to get to the shop in one piece.

    I worked for some good and some sketchy used car dealers. There were many repairs where the absolute cheapest minimum fixes were required. These were often Buy-Here Pay-Here car lots where the cost is kept low, the cars are not great, and the loans are predatory, but they will finance absolutely anyone. I won’t get into the really bad parts, but these places suck and are a product of the exploitive Republican South in the USA, and target minority communities. Most of their cars get repossessed many times over, and while these are supposed to be auctioned to levey the recovered cost against the loan, there are major loopholes. Like the law is not worded in a way that excludes the previous auction price paid by the owner. It also allows for deductions of costs related to preparing the vehicle for auction and transport… Lots of sleazy stuff happening there.

    Anyways… I got the same cars to work on over and over for years from one of those dealers. I often used tie wire to fix trim parts and stuff. It holds better than many actual fasteners.

    In fact, when I did pit for a dirt track sprint car, nearly every fastener on the race car has a hole drilled into the bolt shaft above the nut with a bit of this same tie wire pushed through and twisted. Lots of aviation stuff has the same. Cotter pins are a thing. Like your vehicle’s tie rods have a cotter pinned castle nut, which is basically the same thing but a pin that is less prone to corrosion in the long term. Still, tie wire will last years and 50k-100k miles even in bad weather and conditions.

    When I repair stuff like a plastic bumper cover that is torn or in pieces, I often used tie wire to stitch align the pieces exactly where I want them. Then I plastic weld repair the back side by embedding the stitched cross part of the wire in a special way. The wire becomes part of the reinforcing structure. Then I clip the wires where they went through from the back, remove the front part of each stitch, and cosmetically repair the crack and stitching holes in the plastic.