If you do it manually, path is something like (if it’s on the ssd at least)

~/.local/steam/steamapps/common/StardewValley/mods

SMAPI has a .sh in their release zip that sets it up for you, and their wiki is pretty solid if you’re wanting to do it through proton instead of the native application. I gave the nexus mod app a try, works pretty well but without premium you need to download mods individually, having an actual mod manager is nice though.

I’ve done rimworld modding running that through proton, but rimworld has workshop support and various mod managers so that was really easy to do (and plays pretty well, but I played rimworld on the og steam controller in the past so was kinda used to it)

Just setup mods for my partner’s steamdeck, ended up putting stardew Very expanded on both our decks and doing a new playthrough, needed to tweak a few settings as a chunk of mods seem to expect keyboard/mouse controls.

Runs pretty well all things considered, it’s added an overwhelming amount of stuff.

I did some testing for some parts for my dad, he keeps bees and lost a shaft support for one of his tools when he was reassembling it, he whipped up a replacement and fired me the stl when I was talking about my printers.

Printing with the shaft in the z needed a lot of supports,

laying it on its “back” was by far the easiest, outside of the support looked a little gross, could have benefitted from supports. Did them all in petg, gave them all to him just so he can get a feel for what 3D printed parts look like as he’s interested in getting one himself (trying to sell him on a v0 if he’s not sure, but kinda thinking about doing a trident)

Should add eduke32 (that’s the repo, site here) for Duke Nukem 3D, believe Ion Fury (which is phenomenal) is built on that, think I’ve seen mention of it working with other build engine games, I’ve used with assets from world tour, it’s a better experience imo.

Gzdoom has some great games built on the engine too (bit of a tangent), Selaco and Hedon both fantastic games.

We are already are, look at season passes, dlc etc, 90+ is the de facto price of a lot of AAA games. They’ll claim going even higher is to support developers or whatever when laying people off en masse and posting even larger quarterly results, it’s pure avarice.

They also tend to sell more copies vs decades ago, which is partly why the $70cad game was so normal for so long IMO.

It’s a right of passage, I switched all my hotends to fixed blocks, accidentally loosened the block once on the older style hotend after torquing correctly and enveloped the thing in petg, it kinda vitrified too or something in the heat, was like glass so no getting that off.

Generally, blobs off of your hotend, estop it and take a look, that’s a huge tell for a leak.

Worth keeping a few spares around, at least for stuff like nozzles, blocks, heaters and probes.

Decky has a Powertools plugin, what I’ve been doing, can set per game profiles and restrict charge rates as well with that.

I bought the LCD when it was really steeply discounted, like nearly $280 CAD before taxes and duties for a new one. I bought my partner an oled one and the screen is strikingly different to me, size makes a difference and it’s a lot more vibrant (+ HDR).

The LCD is a solid machine and a great value, I like my partner’s screen and battery life but I don’t know if it’s worth spending twice the price. Regardless, both are really easy to service, way more comfortable than the switch is too.

I’ve been playing rogue trader on mine recently, I’d describe as playable, but it’s night and day different going through moonlight (which yeah, obviously). Satisfactory was able to get 40-60 pretty reliably.

How bad is bg3 on it?

Yeah, makes sense based on where the sensor is, my heater didn’t have a thermocouple on it so I drilled a hole for a thermistor midplate, it’s super slow to respond is the downside but in theory it should be accurate enough.

I don’t have experience with the bambu, in theory everything will experience thermal expansion but for the voron setup, the bimetallic construction is some of the issue, they have different thermal expansion properties so it can cause deflections. Part quality will vary wildly depending on sourcing too, vorons are very diy and open as the draw, but there’s just so much variability from sourcing, mods, assembly etc.

I have z braces on my bear modded mk3s too, things reliable as heck and easy to service.

It looked like you have a textured sheet? 0.2 mm variation over the entire built area isn’t huge, might be exaggerating it.

How much of a heat soak? If you’re going to the edge, let that sit for at least an hour, preferably more, look at Ellis’ page on thermal expansion, frame will absolutely expand. I use backers on my 2.4, gantry is giant bimetallic strip, backers do seem to help with that. Klipper does have the ability to correct for this as well, in that link. I do also have a kinematic bed mount (it’s coupled loosely to the frame, basically gives the bed room to expand), which again does seem to help, but I’d personally say heat soak is the first thing to do to achieve consistency.

And to echo others, degrease your bed with dish soap & water (unless your surface can be damaged, Buildtak that’s a no, don’t of that for example). If that’s a textured sheet, may need to give a bit more of a squish, but get it good and clean first. Ellis has some solid 1st layer calibration and troubleshooting guides to go through. For pei, personally I’ve found I needed to rough up the surface a bit with a brass brush, I don’t love pei on my voron, usually use buildtak but have had really good results with the fire resistant version of garolite.

Edit: read up on your probe, eddy current based? Sounds really interesting, my first point is probably moot, though possible you could be picking up the texture or if you have strong magnets it could affect it (my bed has an array of strong round magnets, seen others that are just a magnetic sheet), the do call that out in their FAQ.

I was looking through, generally custom macros are in the config folder, unsure if they’ve implemented it differently, here’s the Raise3D repo I found earlier, klipper has some code in c for the microcontroller stuff AFAIK with klippy in python, I’ve not personally dove into the code, just config and macro stuff largely.

Actually digging through a bit, there’s some gcodes in /klippy/gcode.py in the above repo I don’t see in the Mainline Klipper equivalent, like M9999, it might be a start, klippy lives on the host machine.

Yeah, didn’t think it was an image, just images in gcode are encoded.

I did find their github with a klipper config, but yeah, unsurprisingly it’s not there. You could see if it has documentation through the klipper console? I’m betting it’s not going to be in your klipper config unfortunately. Definitely leaning toward it being the portion that has the firmware validate the key and then set things up.

Prefacing this, I have no idea, can’t find any information either, I’m just speculating for what it’s worth.
.What’s kinda interesting is someone posted an identical one to the prusa forums like 2 years ago, no responses unfortunately.

I’m willing to guess it’s data, I’d wondered if it was unique per user but if you both have encountered it… don’t think that’s the case. I’m going to assume it’s sending a blob, vaguely reminds me of image thumbnails in gcode, but those are clear that’s what they are, maybe it’s some executable code that changes printer parameters or how the subsequent gcode is processed by the controller to support the HyperFFF mode.

Don’t love it personally, but I’m willing to assume they’re doing this way to obfuscate what’s happening because its proprietary rather than anything malicious. I don’t really have the tools or knowledge to really try to examine it further however, hopefully someone with that skillset is interested enough.

Edit: is this a cloud first printer? Also totally possible it’s just telling the printer to download something remotely to support that HyperFFF mode, again, can’t really tell, could be worth seeing what’s happening network wise.

Trying to be vague as heck in the spoilers, totally get it! Don’t think there’s anything there that’s super spoilery (I hope!) But definitely play it safe.

Fingers crossed next run, as for the item there’s a

Yeah, I’ve never had

Definitely up there for the most notes I’ve taken playing a game for a while, some of them aren’t immediately obvious though their usefulness

Finally got

The back story as I said is probably the thing that kept me going, not 100% there but I needed to know if my own theories were correct.

Edit, also

I did enjoy it and the underlying story kept me going, gotta say after playing it with my partner for a while, the rogue like elements started getting a little grating, especially if you’re looking for extremely specific rooms and get crap RNG (took like 12 days to get a

I know there are

Got tedious/frustrating at times but did overall enjoy it.

Says a lot that it can run pretty much maintenance free for a year and a half! I only had issues with my mk3s doing daily enclosed abs prints in the summer, the original petg softened and it ended up killing the idler end of the x axis (idler mount deformed suddenly under tension after like… 1-2 months of that). They may not be the fastest or fanciest but they’re easy to service and in my experience pretty reliable, I repacked the linear bearings after a year or so out of precaution when I did a full rebuild, but I don’t expect needing to do that for a long time.

Here’s another prusa article for infill patterns, the prusa knowledge base is really decent and applicable to a variety of printers, I use my voron a lot but still refer to it.

Grid infill is crossing, get a decent blob or buildup and you could have nozzle collision, I personally like gyroid but it is slower.

Had a similar failure on the mk3s, what does the belt tension test return? Stealth mode may help or be the cause, anecdotally I’ve seen mention of motor temps, the old rambo board running stock firmware they got toasty when printing in the enclosure in the summer, stealth helped me limp it along until I did a board swap and changed to klipper. I don’t know if this is an issue with the mk4 as that’s not using the older Rambo based boards, but something to consider as well, had it happen even after I did the first abs rebuild.

Edit: too tight can also cause issues, not necessarily skipping but having it trigger the virtual endstop, prusa has an article for troubleshooting layer shifting. Also probably with checking both axis to ensure they’re smooth and consistent across travel, seen an over tight x carriage back cause too much resistance and have false triggers.