I found Freecad has become fairly intuitive if you already have traditional parametric cad experience, there’s definitely a few quirks but generally super easy to adapt to if you come from solidworks, inventor and the like, trying to convince my dad to give it a try as he’s been getting back into design since retiring and he’s been paying for a solid works license. Personally use ondsel but mainline freecad is totally useable.
Kinda sounds like combine infill layers in prusa/super slicer, that setting will have it do the perimeters as per normal but do infil at 1/2/3 etc layers, so 0.2 layers would get infill every 0.4 at 2, so it’ll print the perimeters and anything that can’t be merged, go to the next layer and do the perimeters and chunky infill, I use it to save time and I haven’t noticed much difference in functionality.
Yeah I recall the USAF deploying a ps3 cluster years ago
I don’t use mine much anymore but I still have it out, was a really cool idea and while it had a learning curve, definitely made controller gaming possible with a lot of titles, steam input in general these days is fantastic for that but even so I’d totally buy a steam deck layout steam controller v2.
Could have a bot that links to a git wiki, or even just a sidebar with knowledge base stuff would be nice for that.
Totally get you, I swapped my prusa’s hotend for a stealthburner as well, they’re super nice to service, especially with the 2 part PCB, but having the entire assembly mounted from the front is fantastic.
Stealthburner ended up fixing your clog issues entirely?
Fingers crossed. There’s hats you can get to power the pi off of printer’s 24v supply, considering doing it on my klippered mk3s and switch that over to using a SBC instead of the laptop.
If you can swing it, definitely worth printing a spare set for the stealthburner + cw2, 
just in case you crack anything during assembly.
Really like the pathfinder games because you can swap between turn based or real-time on the fly, sometimes I want to think about my actions but other times yeah it gets repetitive
You’d think right, anecdotally when I was meaaign with undervolting on my desktop, you’d get instability or crashes at the limits without useful errors. Could think maybe the processor isn’t getting enough power and that’s causing instability? Found a klipper thread that about losing connection with the mcu which totally can show up as an EOF error.
How are you powering the pi itself? Wondering if the wakeup draw from your screen is enough to make it unstable, 4 I believe having higher power drawn than the 3 if you’re using the same power supply. Pi isn’t oced either?
Quick Edit: I run my v2.4 on a lepotato with oodles of usb attachments (camera, multiple mcus, wifi and a screen. Replacing the mcu connections with a usb-canbus bridge when the heatwave ends) but with it connected directly to a meanwell 5v5a PSU into the gpio header, have never had communication issues to the octopus pro I use. Skr mini on the other printer is connected to a laptop host so it definitely has enough power, did have some odd issues with the skr mini and having an accelerometer connected to the spi header on boot and separately the 24v supply becoming loose that I fixed by crimping ferules onto the supply wires when I added a molex connector to make taking the printer out of its enclosure easier.
Yeah, had that happen a few years ago, thankfully there was a consistent status attributes in the response that I could use but still, annoying
Yeah that’s how I did the mockup, I use superslicer on one printer and prusaslicer on the other so was hoping I could do something that’d be able to port between them easily.
On that thought, superslicer being based on prusa slicer, wonder if I could just import the project like I’ve done with filament profiles. Thanks!
Yeah I used inkscape for the image dxf, good thought on the text. I’ll try it in freecad again, had it die on me a few times so I started looking into alternates, thanks!
I’ll give that a try, thanks, figured it’d be something straightforward!
If you’re not familiar with the table, use a select top 10 * from table if you’re on sqlserver, postgresql uses limit and oracle has fetch.
Don’t recommend select * without limits or conditions unless you absolutely know the table, you can very quickly make a DBA unhappy
Generally lubricate every few hundred hours, however you really should consider condition based lubrication over time based, over lubrication is actually a really common failure mode for rotary bearings and would not be surprised if the same is true for linear bearings. 50km intervals sounds like an order of magnitude too frequently based on what I recall from Thompson, yeah the bearing type, loading, cleanliness etc all play a part, but their examples are in the hundred of km range, not tens.
Are you ensuring that you’re actually getting grease into the bearing as well? The MGNxxX bearings are usually sealed, you need to get past them to actually lubricate as you want to expel the degraded grease. Myself, I do some white lithium via syringe and then machine oil on the rails, and even that’s probably excessive. Moving the bearings by hand along their length of travel will give you a feel for them as well, there’s a lot more you could do but I’ll be totally honest that it’s probably not worth doing, consequence of failure is basically nothing in the hobby space (no risk of injury, low costs, no impacts to business, basically if a bearing goes you’re out what like $50? and an hour)
I can’t find much literature about it, did find this safe handling procedures from UNSW Sydney if interested. I’d say if you’re concerned, don’t use it. The fibres themselves to me are a concern when out of the polymer, so take precautions when sanding or cutting, glove up and wear a mask + eye protection, probably should consider wet sanding too to reduce airborn dust. Print in an enclosure with ventilation, same precautions you’d take for abs and nylon, you don’t want to be around that when it’s printing. As I said though, if you do have any concerns, don’t use it, there are matte finished filaments if thats the look you’re going for.
What was CNC kitchen’s concerns? As above, personally I’d be concerned while disturbing the plastic through printing, cutting, sanding etc, just handling it wouldn’t be on the top of my list unless the plastic has degraded or been damaged in some way, pretty much how I’d treat anything with fine fibres or particles in it.
At the end of it, I’m just some guy on the internet, if you have concerns, don’t risk it. If you do decide to use it, treat it with respect like you would anything with fine particles or fibres.
Will echo the recommendations of debian or mint. I have mint on my 13 year old rog laptop, it’s my lab computer and runs klipper for one of my printers, pretty much always up, very rarely reboots. Debian is what I run on my 4 year old zenbook s, pretty much perfect for my uses, it’s what I cart around for light/mobile work and I swear it actually has better battery life than it did running windows.
I really liked the wavebird for the gamecube, unfortunately mine went into the aether on my last move, got bluetooth adapters to pair modern controllers with it but the wavebird was really cool at the time, was really amazing to not have to be tethered to the console and it being first party, though at the time the madcatz stuff was decent.
For recent controllers, I’ve been using a knockoff 360 controller for moonlight recently and after a lot of back and forth I really think MS nailed the controller setup back then (OG Xbox being decent but not a preference, I hated the duke, s controller was solid though), I like the xbone controllers as well, but IMO they’re just iterations on the 360 controller, easily my preference as an all rounder controller layout.
I have a steam controller, used it for a while but it’s been some time now, had some really great ideas, I’d totally go for an updated steamdeck style layout on that, probably a second for me.
I’ve had so much drift issues with ds4s that I personally don’t reach for a ds4 or dualsense for non playstation games, I like being able to swap batteries and the Xbox/Steam controllers all seem to have way better battery life in general, I keep a stock of rechargeables around so not generating piles of waste.