I’m not going to claim to fully understand the nuances, but the sea ice will melt at about -2C and glacial melt will deposit ~1C water into the system. If the deep water is steady at 3C or 4C, sending it up could accelerate melting of both.

Nope.

That is, instead of sinking into the depths, surface water is being replaced by deep water masses rising to the surface, bringing with them heat and carbon dioxide (CO₂) that had been trapped for centuries.

I had to look up that last part, as it seemed counter-intuitive, but apparently deep ocean water bottoms out at 4 degrees C.

If they do, they’re called waders.

Oh, Peppa is a total asshat, but she’d generally have to eat shit in a way certain other kids’ animation asshats didn’t (coughcalilloucough). There was enough of old-school cartoon and comic strip tropes from Warner Brothers shorts and Peanuts that it wasn’t the worst show to endure.

Daddy Pig was pretty badass when the wolf family moved to town.

I’m a few years out from that age range, but Caillou, Ryan’s Toy Reviews, and motherfuckin’ Blippi made Peppa look like Shakespeare.

Some of the jokes in this show seem targeted to adults, which makes no sense, as absolutely nothing in this show is watchable to anyone above the age of 4.

Clearly you never saw the one where Peppa is a stone-cold bitch when she realizes everybody but her can whistle or learn within seconds.

Utahns generally don’t like to draw attention to themselves as firebrands (e.g. Mitt Romney, Orrin Hatch), so methinks the Senator is planning to get into the 2028 presidential primary.

Sonic the Hedgehog 2. Little one can be Tails and play coop.

This comic has always resonated with me. THIS is how we incorrigible know-it-alls of the world can use our powers for good, or at least for not actively evil, LOL.

I know they don’t mind “dramatic iteration” in testing, but aren’t the tests supposed to get better as time goes on?

This one didn’t dump debris across Caribbean islands though, so I guess there’s that.

Probably other sleepy English majors! 🤣

Tell us how you really feel. :-)

I don’t use Solidworks, but maybe somebody who does can help out.

Thanks! I am going to keep those all in my back pocket for when the honeymoon of not having a $99 “box o’ parts” Voxelab wears off, though I feel a little guilty for never installing that BLTouch clone now.

I haven’t printed much with the Sovol yet. So far, the main things I’m running into are bed adhesion (the old standby of a washable glue stick is helping), and I’ve had a couple of vertically oriented parts get knocked off the bed, and slowing down quite a bit helped.

I know the beds are worse, apparently almost all of them. Sovol chose to change the Voron reference design to be cheaper and it’s just not held down right, so they exhibit varying degrees of “taco” inconsistency that the diagram accentuates visually. Mine has a corner that seems to be about 0.4mm too high, and the rest is a bit wavy to lesser amounts. This is the main reason I set it to redo its z offsets before every print.

The Sovol doesn’t use standard extrusion profiles so it’s less moddable, its hot end is not completely standard, and it uses injection molded parts in places the Voron uses 3d printed parts (that last may be be an advantage, lol). The Sovol also doesn’t run a completely clean version of Klipper. I think it’s set in a way to make it work a little better with their cheaper BOM.

It’s big and fast and Voron-like, but it’s just not a hand crafted super printer like a Voron can be.

I just got a Sovol SV08, which is like a Voron but changed up a bit so the teacher doesn’t get mad… and to be cheaper :-)

I’m just coming in from an Ender3 clone, but overall, other than the potential of taco bed messing up some prints, I’ve been really pleased with it. I’m still fine tuning what it likes to do, including slowing it down on some small vertical prints, letting the bed “heat soak” for a while to even out, and running the Z Offset calibration on every print, but Core XY, auto leveling, and all the other little QoL advantages are nice, and I’ve already used the big bed to print stuff that wouldn’t fit on a “normal” bed.

For your specific printer, Vorons are generally even more kit built than most printers, sometimes even completely assembled from a BOM by the builder/user. If they did it well, and if it loks to be in good shape, it should be an excellent and well supported printer. I paid USD490 for “We have Voron at home” and I feel like it was a good deal. I’m not super well versed in pricing in Europe, but EUR770 seems like a good deal on a kit, a REALLY good deal on a new 350mm, and a very solid one for a used printer in good shape.

Now, all that said, I am super glad that I kinda had some experience with more primitive printers before I got the Sovol. I’m less panicky about little inconveniences and realities of printing (especially on a budget), and I feel like I at some high level understand how it’s all supposed to be working and that I can look up how to fix things and implement what I learn. If you don’t want to deal with any of that, a Bambu, even with its potential walled garden “sword of Damocles”, might be a simpler idea.I understand they really are just super easy to live with.

I handwire keyboards. It’s just like tying fishing flies except I burn my fingers sometimes.

Yup. This right here.

I was moving very slowly at full depth, so I wouldn’t have to try to get to the exact same endpoint multiple times at different depths.

This is the textbook source of burning on routed pieces, especially with a bit that’s anything less than pristine. As mentioned, stop blacks are the best solution. Barring that, plunging at the beginning and end, maybe twice, will give you cushion to stop without needing millimeter-accuracy, but hell, the best way to get those plunges in just the right spot is stop blocks. :-) As an added bonus, you’ll get less tearout doing multiple shallow passes. You sanded that down very nicely indeed, and the big open grain of red oak is actually quite good for masking that, but other materials might be less forgiving.

• Shop around. For us, PODS was pretty convenient as local storage, but surprisingly pricy for a non-local (~300mi) move. I had a Shopsmith and a cast-iron contractor saw to consider.
• Whether you use movers or not, YOU are the one who knows the machines. Spend time (and it will be a lot) to break them down as compact as they can be. Remove fences, belts, extensions, wings, cutter heads, basically anything that wobbles or offers a point of leverage. Movers (if you use them) know heavy and they know awkward, but they don’t know pulleys, tensioned induction motors, etc., and they sure don’t know that the giant stick of steel tubing is the most precisely aligned part of your saw.
• At least consider selling the big iron. Sawstops in particular hold their value well, and then you can replace with something similar that only had to deal with a local move. Any loss you take should be considered a moving expense.
• Make sure chisels and blades are safely stowed, where “safely” means for both people and edges.
• View the whole exercise as a chance to revisit your tooling, layout, and workflow, and accept now that you will be spending a lot of time reassembling and re-aligning.