Ethernet over HDMI does exist as a standard, but iirc it requires the device manufacturer on both ends of the cable to have a special implementation, and also requires a special cable that has the Ethernet data lanes included. I’m not sure any modern displays implement it anymore, it kinda died because it sucked and wasn’t that useful.

Ah i don’t even care about it being loud, I got a garage my printer lives in when I’m doing ASA and ABS anyway. Sounds good thanks!

Good to know. Yeah I already cal my printer for XYZ scaling semi regularly when I’m doing really critical stuff and anything I’m doing over 200mm I already plan for tolerances and match-drilling holes out. Sounds like I’m moving this to my Christmas wishlist.

How do you like your 08Max? I’ve been looking into getting a large format printer for automotive parts and it’s one of the most cost effective ones I can find on the market. Would like to know how it does for accuracy, eg how much fiddling do you need to get parts within a mm tolerance. And not sure on sovol’s firmware and parts availability.

I’d have to add my own enclosure heater but I’m already building a design to add that to my x1c so that’s not a big issue.

Well seeing as the brim is pretty smooth and properly filled I’m guessing it’s not a machine bed leveling thing.

Wondering if your print preset is messed up. Go to the Quality tab with advanced settings in orca, and near the bottom there should be “bottom surface flow ratio” as well as “elephants foot compensation” (i think, going completely from memory here) You may need to turn up the flow ratio and/or down the foot comp to get the bottom layer squeezed together properly, the defaults with the sv08 profile might not be right for your particular plate.

Is it underextrusion/too high gaps or overextrusion mountains pushed up by the nozzle? It’s hard to tell if there is actual space between the plastic lines. Is this leading to print fails or bad first layer quality when the part is removed?

A tactic I’ve noticed in Orcaslicer, when using Bambu presets on my x1c, is to slightly overextrude the first layer. This forces the plastic solidly into a textured bed surface ensuring you get maximum hold. This leaves the first layer looking kinda shitty on top but fully filled in underneath. And it doesn’t do this for the brim either.

I’d run it for the prototype, just for funsies, until a shop can make the real part or the plastic breaks. It might last longer than you think.

And at significantly lower transmit power too. Ubiquiti 5ac ptp rigs use like 8w, 802.11ah can make a link with under a watt. Sure it won’t be fast at all but if you’re doing a remote embedded device on a solar panel, it makes a huge difference.

The only difference between men and boys is the size of their toys.

That shelf sag scares me, sir. At least reinforce each layer with a slab of plywood or something.

Whatever is cheapest. When youre first starting out basically any hardware will do, it just needs to boot Linux. As you progress and find more stuff to put on the servers, you’ll discover what you’re real hardware needs are.

When I first started, it was a hand me down single core AMD Sempron machine (socket 754!) that I later upgraded to an Athlon64 and 4gb of DDR. I managed to bodge that poor thing into running a Minecraft 1.5.2 server.

Personally I would stick with the i3 machine since I am assuming it’s an office PC that can be had for cheaper than a Pi 5 (which is quite inflated in price IMO). x86 still retains better software support vs ARM and they are significantly easier to attach large cheap storage to via SATA. Power cost will be greater but I doubt an office i3 pulls more than 70w wall power at full load.

For russia. These sanctions are basically toothless, Russian corporations have already decoupled from the Western banking system and are shadow-fleeting all their oil to willing buyers in India and China without much reduction in flow. This is a theater play.

They don’t catch on fire anymore, just fill with diarrhea from an incontinent asshole.

lemmy.dbzer0.com - Anarchists who hate tankies and any rules except their own, which are different and therefore better

I mean. The only real rules we have mostly surround don’t be a dick and the bare minimum to manage a public forum. If you can’t really pass that test then you weren’t welcome in the first place.

Lemmy is what you make of it. You have to put effort into tuning your subscribed communities, blocklists, etc. There is no algorithm to filter the chaff for you. I see very little inter-instance drama these days because I’ve filtered it out.

What are you gaining by coupling them instead series? Are you trying to obtain higher accelerations? Never really heard of two motors before.

As long as the steppers have their steps in sync, I think it should work. If the step positions are out of sync even half a degree you’ll be seeing motor heating and poor performance as the motors try to fight each other into position. But I feel like you won’t see as much speed benefit as you think since you’ll run out of belt tension and rail stiffness, causing unwanted vibrations and oscillation at higher acceleration.

Your comment is surprisingly spot on. One of my professors from community college that I remain in contact with is a retired AF pilot and long time Boeing manufacturing engineer from well before the M-D merger. He quit only a year or two after the merger because he saw the huge writing on the wall with how suddenly Boeing’s corporate behavior changed. He had contacts at M-D who warned him too and he got out while the getting was good.

service still up = no problem
Can’t access service = problem, better ssh in

Simple as

A. Run a batch transcode with Handbrake and make all your stored files compatible with your end players.
It sounds like the more recent things you are downloading are in a codec that is not compatible with your playback devices. E.g, older torrents are frequently an H.264 stream in an MP4 container, which practically every device can play now. Many modern releases are being distributed in H.265 or AV1, as they have significant size and quality benefits, but many older devices don’t support them natively. so it is forcing Jellyfin to live transcode to h.264. Find out what older titles play without any buffer or playback lag/high CPU usage and check what codec those files are in. That is what you’ll need to batch encode everything over to.

B. Sounds like you are still relying on CPU transcoding which is absolute dog. What mini pc specs do you have? If it’s an AMD or Intel CPU/APU then it should have hardware encode/decode included in it’s integrated GPU. When using hardware transcoding the CPU load is generally minimal for 1 to 2 streams. See the Jellyfin docs on hardware acceleration here.

I have had bad, wet sections of PLA refuse to adhere to beds or its own layers. There’s a lot of ways a filament manufacturer could fuck up the blend or moisture control, especially with cheaper shit.

Cut a section out and hold a lighter or heat gun under the end until it softens and curls up.
Good filament should look smooth and the same color. Bad filament will get bubbly, wart-looking texture and take on a yellow sheen. The bubbles are moisture leaving the plastic and the yellow sheen is the plastic breaking down, it will have no adhesion.

Worth trying to dry it just to see if it improves at all but cheap filament is gonna be cheap.